3 – 4 day Milos itinerary | A relaxed guide for first-time visitors

Milos: the final stop on our two week Cyclades island hopping trip and one that’s a little different from the rest.

It’s the social media star of the moment. I could barely go a swipe last summer without seeing travellers diving off boats and whitewashed cliffs that look more akin to Mars than Greece. And it’s for a good reason: Milos is totally unique with a couple of attractions in particular you just can’t miss. More on those shortly…

Rather than being constantly on the go, this 4 day Milos itinerary is realistic, relaxed and covers exactly how we spent our time there.

If you’re planning to visit Milos as part of a wider Cyclades trip, my two week Greek island hopping itinerary and Cyclades island hopping guide are a great starting point.

How to get to Milos

Milos is well-connected by ferry to the Cyclades and mainland Greece, with regular ferry connections to Athens, Heraklion, Santorini Mykonos, Paros, Koufonissi, Serifos and many more.

There is also a local airport but with flights more sporadic and expensive, ferries are your best bet.

As we were approaching peak season, we booked all our ferries in advance with Ferryhopper. Using Ferryhopper was brilliant as it allowed us to easily compare times and prices, create a schedule and access our booked tickets online. I’d highly recommend it to make your Cyclades backpacking trip easier!

Our evening ferry from Paros arrived around 20:00 and like with most of the Greek island, the port is tiny and easy to navigate.

How to get around Milos

A hire car will transform your Milos experience.

Public transport is available, but limited, and the bus network won’t cut it to help you reach the island’s best spots (especially not outside peak times), fishing villages and quieter beaches.

It’s worth bearing in mind that hiring a car is significantly more expensive than many of the other Cyclades islands like Naxos and Santorini. However, it’s absolutely worth it so I’d recommend doing your research beforehand and again, booking in advance if you’re visiting in the summer months.

We were recommended Milion Rent a Car by our Airbnb host and Stella was super helpful. She was waiting for us at the port when our ferry arrived, we did the paperwork then and there then it was over to us!

There are certain areas on Milos that are inaccessible without an SUV but it’s a toss up between that or hiring a smaller car that’s easier to whizz around the narrow, winding roads. We personally didn’t feel it was necessary and chose a boat trip to access some of the more remote areas instead.

Where to stay in Milos

Pollonia

We chose Pollonia, a small fishing village on the north coast, and I’d recommend it to any first-time visitors. It’s super small and unspoilt, set on a curved bay full of fishing boats and waterfront restaurants, but you feel like you’re truly escaping from the crowds.

We stayed at the most wonderful accommodation in Pollonia; a waterfront studio on Airbnb that’s utterly perfect for relaxing, soaking up the sun and reading in the shaded front yard.

Booked up? You could also consider the sprawling Kostantakis Pool House or Pergola, Pollonia, where some room options have balconies or outdoor hot tubs.

Plaka

The hilltop capital of Plaka is the most atmospheric base on the island of Milos and another excellent place to stay. Also boasting some excellent restaurants and plenty of places for takeaway cocktails at sunset, the winding lanes and views are hard to beat.

The only challenge with staying in Plaka is that you’ll have to leave your car at the bottom of the hill in public parking. However, if you’re travelling light, the views from Piazza Castello and Studios Betty will more than make up for the extra steps.

We were also VERY tempted by The Yellow Boat House in the quaint fishing village of Klima, near Plaka, for a super unique experience.

Adamas

Unlike some of the other port towns in the Cyclades, Milos’ main port town of Adamas doesn’t have much going on. While it may be practical if you aren’t hiring a car, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it otherwise.

If you are hoping to choose Adamas, I’d stay somewhere like Fantasy Rooms (its swimming pool and spacious rooms look wonderful!) or the central Semiramis Guesthouse.

For a look into everywhere we stayed in the Cyclades, I’ve put together this handy map below.

The ideal 4 day Milos itinerary

Day 1 | Arrive & settle in

Depending on what time you arrive, your first day could look like this or busier – it’s totally your call.

Our ferry arrived just after 20:00 so once we’d picked up our hire car, drove 20 minutes to Pollonia on the quiet evening roads and checked into our gorgeous studio, it was absolutely time for dinner.

We chose Jordan’s Pizza House as a quick and easy option but actually, don’t underrate it. The pizzas are delicious but the fresh salad was on another level. Laden with orange, sundried figs, rocket (or arugula) with an amazing honey sauce, I loved it so much that we tried – with semi-success – to recreate it at home.

If you arrive with some more time to enjoy Milos before dinner, I’d recommend heading to one of the island’s beaches for a chilled afternoon.

If you’re feeling adventurous, try Gerontas, reachable via a 20 minute walk through a quarry, or the iconic Tsigrado beach if you don’t mind scaling a rickety ladder or two!

Day 2 | Historic sights and sunset vibes

Today is busy but in the best possible sense, taking in ancient history, one of the most photogenic villages in Milos and a sunset spot that easily rivals Oia in Santorini.

On a side note, if you are visiting Santorini at the same time, my 4 day Santorini itinerary is worth bookmarking for your next read.

Back in Milos, if you’re staying in Pollonia like we did, you’ll want to start your day with breakfast from Kivotos ton Gefseon. This patisserie, deli and coffee garden is a treasure trove of delicious treats where you can grab anything from just-baked goods to freshly-squeezed orange juice. Then, it’s time to jump in the car.

Ancient Theatre of Milos

A genuinely lovely spot to visit, despite the short and exposed walk downhill, the Ancient Theatre of Milos is a fairly small and well-preserved open air theatre with stunning ocean views. It’s a quick

On your way, you’ll also spot where the ‘Statue of Aphrodite’ was discovered. The Venus de Milos was discovered in 1820 and is now on display in the Louvre, so what you can see there is just a replica, but it’s worth the relatively quick stop.

Catacombs of Milos

Conveniently located close to the Ancient Theatre is an attraction I wouldn’t have expected to visit on a Greek island. Yet, whether you’re a history lover or simply hoping to escape the sun for 30 minutes, it’s actually quite cool to visit one of the most significant early Christian monuments in Greece.

With burial sites of thousands of early Christians carved into the underground rock, you can only visit with a guardian for €10. They give you some useful information but are also basically there to ensure you don’t vandalise the stones! The price is a little steep for the size, so assess how much you want to visit or not.

Some tours of Milos also include these spots in their itinerary with other attractions, so that’s worth a look too!

Then, it’s onto the charming village of Klima for lunch as it’s located down the hill from here. It’s technically possible to walk but it’s long and honestly, if you have your own transport, make use of it instead!

Klima

It looks too picturesque to be real, but this tiny fishing village is perfect for a short stroll along the colourful boat houses built directly into the cliffs.

They’re so close to the shore that waves are practically lapping at some of their doorsteps but that’s part of Klima’s iconic charm.

Klima is so small that virtually the only place to eat is Astakas Cafe Restaurant but it’s a nice spot right on the waterfront. More famous for its cocktails and sunset views than its nonchalant ‘we’ll get visitors regardless’ service, we grabbed a quick bite and enjoyed the sunshine before heading out to our next destination.

If you’re not too hungry, you could also drive out of Klima and across to Medusa, a restaurant well known since the Biebers visited. We didn’t make it here, but reviews are good – especially of them serving drinks while you wait for a table!

Plaka

Heading away from the coast is a tough call, but beautiful Plaka is so worth it.

My favourite village on Milos, the hills are steep but the tiny streets and incredible ocean views are well worth the aching calves. It’s easy to spend a few hours weaving through the whitewashed lanes, independent boutiques and bars enjoying the real village feel.

While nobody would claim Plaka is a hidden gem anymore, it’s nowhere near as busy as the famous spots on other islands – although when everyone flocks to the restaurants after sunset, it really comes to life.

Instead, we enjoyed an early dinner at Archontoula, a highly recommended, traditional taverna. Honestly, the dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) were SO good from here that we ordered a second portion. And the first one wasn’t small!

Then, grab a takeaway Aperol Spritz from one of the nearby bars and head up to grab a place on the wall of Plaka Castle for sunset. Honestly, the views across the sea are truly spectacular and with a relaxed atmosphere, it feels like a real island escape.

Day 3 | Out to sea

If there’s one thing to take away from this entire Milos itinerary, it’s this: do the boat trip.

A full day at sea in Milos involves a number of iconic stops, the most famous being Kleftiko, a series of dramatic white cliffs, insanely blue water and rock formations on the south-west coast. The only way to reach it is by boat and honestly, it’s worth every minute.

Other popular stops on a Milos boat trip include are Gerakas Beach (only accessible by boat) Gerontas, Sykia Cave, Kalogries Bay, Tsigrado beach (otherwise only accessible via two rickety ladders) and the uninhabited Polyaigos island.

Boat trip options

Group tour: The most affordable and social way to see Milos by sea, shared tours are a great way to see the highlights of Milos for an affordable price. If you have a preferred option in mind (there are many out there!), secure it in advance as tickets sell fast in peak season.

Private speedboat hire: If you have a set itinerary in mind or want to explore at your own pace, this is the ideal option for couples or groups of family & friends. It costs more, but gives you the flexibility to linger in the best spots or skip others entirely.

During our time in Milos, we got super unlucky as the famously strong Meltemi wind meant that the private speedboat hire we’d planned for our honeymoon wasn’t possible. Tours were only running to a very small area but luckily, this did mean we still got a decent amount of time at the incredible Kleftiko.

After a full day on the water if you’re lucky, you’ll undoubtedly be tanned, salty and most of all, hungry – there’s something about that sea air that really gets the appetite going!

I’d recommend heading back to Pollonia for dinner on the waterfront. With restaurants lining the calm bay, eating on the sand was the perfect, romantic end to a wonderful day.

Day 4 | Sarakiniko

You might have been wondering where the most iconic spot in Milos was on this itinerary: I just had to save the best for last.

Sarakiniko Beach is unlike anywhere else I’ve ever been. The white volcanic rock formations sweep down to the sea in curves and hollows that genuinely look like the surface of the moon. Despite the crowds, it’s otherworldly.

Getting there early is important: by mid-morning, Sarakiniko fills up considerably and the heat on white rock is pretty intense. If you want the light and space to take photos (you definitely will), it’s the best time to capture a shot as well as avoid the worst of the sunburn!

It’s possible to swim at Sarakiniko too – although if the Meltemi is strong, it can get a bit choppy outside the bay – and it’s one of the best spots on the island for a bit of cliff jumping.

After a long, lazy exploration, head back towards Adamas for one last Milos meal. O! Hamos! is a delicious family-style restaurant with uniquely handwritten menus and plenty of delicious treats on the menu.

The pork dishes are particularly well-known, but this is a restaurant where you’ll want to ask for recommendations and trust the team. We were paralysed by choice and our waiter gave us some excellent options to consider that we might not have thought of otherwise.

Wherever your next destination is, Athens or another glorious island, O! Hamos! will leave you nicely full ready for your ferry ride out of Milos. We’d pre-booked our ferry tickets using Ferryhopper, making it super simple to arrive at the port and just wait for our boat to arrive!

Practical tips for visiting Milos

When is the best time to visit Milos?

May, June and September are ideal. July and August are busy and noticeably more expensive, and the Meltemi winds that blow in summer can make some of the more exposed beaches unswimmable on certain days.

As I’ve mentioned above, the Meltemi wind can impact a lot on Milos, especially the west coast, as it’s more exposed to wind than some of the other Cyclades islands. It’s worth checking a local forecast each morning and being flexible about which beach you head to.

Should I book Milos in advance?

In peak season, the popular activities and places to stay fill up quickly, such as the best boat tours. If your heart is set on a few particular activities, get them booked in for peace of mind.

If you know car will be your main mode of transport for your entire trip, I’d definitely recommend getting your car hire secured in advance. Budget higher than you would in the other Cyclades islands but it’s definitely worth it.

What’s the best way to pair Milos with other islands?

Milos works brilliantly as the final stop on a Cyclades island hop. Its slightly off-the-beaten-track feel is a perfect contrast to Santorini’s fame or Paros’ chic buzz; ending on Milos means you leave the Cyclades feeling like you found something a little special.

Our route was Santorini, Naxos, Paros and Milos, which I’d thoroughly recommend. Ferries connect Milos back to Piraeus (Athens) for those flying home, or you can hop to a neighbouring island if you have more time.

For help planning your wider trip, my Cyclades island hopping guide covers the logistics you need to know about ferries, pacing and choosing islands. Then, my two week Cyclades island hopping itinerary shows exactly how we put it all together.

Is Milos worth the visit?

If it’s not obvious from the rest of this guide; without question.

It’s the Cyclades island that stands out as the most unique with Kleftiko and Sarakiniko’s white lunar formations. Add the villages, excellent food and sunsets, and you’re in for a genuinely special trip.

Have an amazing trip!

Laura x